traditional1 route which is led after ( toprope) practice, sometimes with preplaced protection. Sometimes thought to be a modern affliction for routes over E8, though it was clearly already in use in Joe Brown's day in the 1950s; see the first ascent description for Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b), which talks of careful practice in the days of nailed boots. The traditional equivalent of a redpoint. [Michele McIntyre, Wil Treasure] A heel hook