Vin de Pays. This term was once used to cover simple country wines from specific regions of France, one rung up the quality ladder from generic Vin de Table. Nowadays it has come to mean much more than that as adventurous winemakers, often 'incomers' from the New World, experiment with non-traditional grape varieties not allowed under AOC rules. There are now some superb, high-quality (and relatively high-priced) wines hiding behind this modest label.